Backing up your horse:

Backing up your horse is very important. A lot of people over look this, but, if you were on a trail, and you had a rock wall on one side, a cliff on the other and you couldn’t go any further, wouldn’t you want your horse to know how to back up?

Now when you first start, your horse may toss his head, or shake it. Horses don’t know what you want, that’s why we have to patiently show them. Just keep the pressure on your horse, don’t let him have his head until he gives you what you want. If you let go while they are tossing or throwing their heads they will think that’s what you want them to do and they will keep doing it when you pull back on the lead.

I start by making sure my horse gives at the poll. Giving at the poll makes it easier for you to collect your horses head in order to back them up. You don’t necessarily have to do this, But I would recommend it.

Start on the ground,  pull back on their lead rope, lightly, and firmly say “back”. The moment they move one of their feet backwards, give back their head (let go of the lead). Pet his nose to let him know he did good, then pull back on the lead rope again, telling your horse “back”. Wait for him to move one of his feet backwards then give him his lead again.

Do this about 5 -8 times and then pull back on the lead and say “back” until he takes two steps back, let go of the lead. Keep this up until he is comfortable taking two steps at a time.

Now make him back up a whole horse length before you let go of the lead.

They probably won’t be real good at it the first couple days you work on them, but they will understand what you want. It will just take time for their reaction time to get better. Soon you will just have to say back and they will back right up. Just keep it up and don’t give up on them.

Now your ready to start backing your horse while in the saddle.

While sitting in the saddle, pull gently back on the reins and say “back”. Do not jerk on his mouth, this will only upset your horse and make it dangerous for you and him. When you feel him move just the littlest bit backwards, let go of the reins. Put quite a bit of slack in the reins, so your horse can feel the slack.

Give him a few seconds to let this sink in, then slightly pull back on his reins, and tell him “back”. Again, the minute he feels like he is moving backwards, give him slack. Do this about 5 times, then start making him take one full step backwards.

Pull back slightly on the reins and tell your horse “back”. when he moves one step backwards, give him the reins. Keep doing this about 5-10 times.  When your confident in your horse, go ahead and back him a horse length.

Put pressure on the reins and tell your horse to “back”, keep pressure on the reins until he backs the whole length of his body. He might back a couple steps and maybe toss his head or pull on the reins, but keep the pressure till he backs the whole way. The minute he does though, give him his reins and pet and praise him. He just did that for you, let him know your proud of him.

Now you can back him, just keep it up and he will go further and further. once he is really confident,  you can challenge him and try to get him to back uphill, and downhill.

Dropping your horses head:

Your horse dropping his head is very important for things like bridling and grooming, You really don’t want a horse that picks you up off of the ground when you try to bridle them, and they will if they can get away with it.

Put your fingers on the horses poll (behind your horses ears), thumb on one side of their mane two fingers on the other side. put a steady pressure downward while pinching lightly. If your horse does not drop his head, put a little more pressure. The second your horse gives to the pressure, release your hand. The release has to be quick, so the horse knows what you want. Repeat the process until your horses head in to your waist, you can make it go lower if you want. keep doing this until you just put your fingers on their poll and they will drop their head.

Now that your horse is dropping his head you can start using the halter to drop his head. pull down slightly on his lead rope for about 3 seconds. If he does not drop his head, place your fingers back on his poll and put pressure, while maintaining pressure on the lead. The minute he drops his head, release all pressure. give him about 3 seconds, then pull down lightly on the lead rope again, if he does not drop his head, again put your fingers back on his poll. Keep this up until he drops his head only when you pull on the lead rope.

Crowding while leading:
Using aggressive behavior toward your horse is not good. Your horse won’t react to it well, and it doesn’t get the point across. Horses are flight animals, their first reaction is to get away from whatever is hurting them.

You want your horse to trust you, not fear you.

Every trainer has their own method to training that they use.

Start from the ground work, I would rather know if my horse is going to spook, buck, rear, etc. while I’m not in the saddle.

If your starting a young horse, teach them to respect your space, first. If he does not respect your space, you are going to be the first one he runs over while you are working with him.

In your mind and posture, think “back off” Horses are very sensitive, and they will eventually do what you want without a cue or word, by just your posture.

There are a few ways to keep your horse in his “bubble” and not yours. If he just crowds your side while you are leading him, use your elbow to push his neck away and be firm. Use a firm word or sound that means your not pleased.I say “hey” I use this word and my horses stop whatever they are doing and look at me. If he is not paying attention to you, make him circle you. Make sure the circle is wide, so he won’t crowd you while he is circling. Use the end of his lead line to make him stay off you.

Another method I like to use, is his lead line. If he is just crowding in general, I swing his lead line back and forth, gently at first, to give him a chance to back away.I just move my hand about 8 inches for the swing.  If he does not back away, I swing with a little more pressure. I usually count to 5 slowly in between pressure increases for him to register what I want. All the while making my posture say “Back off”.

It will take awhile but he will eventually get it. Just don’t give up.

Won’t lead/ won’t move on the lead line:

Don’t ever jerk on a horse. Their first reaction is to jerk back, You won’t win a tug of war with a 1000 lb animal.

If he wont move at all, pet him all over to let him know your his friend and not his prey.

Before you get started make sure you are using a good lead line, at least 8 foot in length.  Stand at the end of the lead line and to the side and watch your horses body language. Some horses don’t know what you want them to do, and they will jump forward at first.

Stand at the the end of the lead and pull gently with your body, the minute he even moves his foot or even lifts it up, give back his head (release all pressure on him). Give him about 5 sec. then put pressure on the lead again. same thing, he moves his foot, you give back his head. I do this about 3 to 5 times, then I ask for a little more. put pressure on the lead, and make him take a step with one foot,any foot, before you give him back his head. I do this a little more, about 8 to 10 times, then I ask for him to actually walk  forward his own body length before I give him his head.  Once he walks his own length, I give him back his head. Do this about 10 times. Now he has gotten the concept.  You  now have a horse that leads. Now, he knows what you want, so walk around, and if he stops, keep constant pressure on him, he will walk forward, then take the pressure off and keep walking.

Part 1

Part 2

Part 3

Part 4

Dieting Tips For An Overweight Horse

Author: Kate Hinton

Just as with humans, horses should strive to maintain an ideal weight. As is also the case with humans, it is often necessary to put your horse on a diet to drop a few unwanted pounds. The principles behind equine weight loss are the same as with human weight loss: do so healthily, slowly, steadily, and without starving.

Horses face many of the same issues we face when we are overweight. Carrying even a few extra pounds can put the horse’s total health in danger, and he or she can easily become more susceptible to breathing problems, hormone imbalances, injuries, and laminitis.

Starting The Diet

The first step to starting your horse on a diet is to determine the ideal weight for your animal. This number not only gives you a goal to strive for, it will also help you to figure how much food the horse should be fed on a daily basis.

Some simple guidelines for slow and steady weight loss are as follows: If the horse is still active and getting daily exercise, you should be feeding a minimum of one and a half percent of his or her current body weight, and as much as two percent of his or her ideal body weight in hay. If the horse is not getting regular exercise, or if he or she is confined to a stall or paddock area, you should feed anywhere from one to one and a half percent of his or her ideal body weight in hay.

Make sure you do not send your horse on a crash diet. If your horse is already on a reduced hay diet and not getting any grain, yet he or she is not losing any weight it can be tempting to reduce the food even further. You need to keep from doing this, as you could be affecting the animal’s metabolic rate, thus causing the horse to become resistant to the effects of insulin and become dependent upon fat stores in their bodies to feed their cells. When this happens (referred to as fat mobilization) the results can be so severe that organ damage can occur and the blood can become milky.

When you find yourself in the situation of a reduced calorie diet with little weight loss, it is important to check for underlying problems. We have all been around overweight people who claim they cannot lose weight due to a “glandular problem”. While most of us think “yeah right” when we hear this statement, the truth is it really could be the reason and the same could be true for your horse!

To determine if this is the case, take a bit of time and assess your horse for the following symptoms:

• Weight gain that began right after the horse reached maturity;

• Weight gain even on a diet that would not be sufficient to hold weight on a horse of a similar size;

• A fatty or hard crest on the neck that is present even if weight is lost elsewhere on the body;

• Other abnormal patches of fat in random patterns, sometimes appearing dimpled or resembling cellulite.

Other conditions such as insulin resistance and leptin resistance can be underlying causes of weight gain as well. If you suspect your horse may have any of these problems you should seek the advice of a veterinarian before starting any type of restricted diet.

What To Feed A Fat Horse

Hay should be your number feed for a horse that is overweight. That being said, it is extremely important that you choose the proper type of hay. Hay can vary a great deal in calories and sugar content. Bright green, tender cuts of hay, such as early alfalfa can really pack on the pounds. Coarser, or “stemmier”, cuts generally contain fewer calories and lower amounts of sugar. The best types of hay for weight loss include: meadow hays, prairie hays, timothy, orchard grass, and mature or late cuttings of Bermuda grass.

When trying to accomplish weight loss, grain should be omitted from your horse’s diet all together. You may be thinking that all of your horse’s nutrition comes from grain; however, this is simply not true. Grain can contain high amounts of fat and calories and really serves no purpose in an overweight horse’s daily diet. If you find your animal is in fact suffering from a metabolic problem, it is even more critical that you avoid feeding grain.

If you simply cannot stand the thought of only feeding your horse hay, or if he or she becomes unruly because others are getting grain, try feeding a healthier alternative. Beet pulp is low in calories, about the same amount as oats per pound; however since it needs to be soaked prior to feeding it can soak up about four times its dry measure. This means you can feed a good sized portion, while only providing a small amount of calories.

A great daily diet for a full sized horse is as follows: one pound (dry weight) of beet pulp divided into two feedings, mixed with two ounces of ground stabilized flax, and two ounces of rice bran. This makes for a diet that is well balanced, provides all the necessary nutrients, and provides enough fat (in the form of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids) to keep your horse happy. Adding the hay with a suitable mineral supplement is all you need to maintain optimal health.

Other Weight Loss Tips

Of course, just as it hold true with people, exercise plays a major role in a horse’s weight loss progress. A regular exercise plan not only helps the horse to burn calories, it also helps to balance hormone levels and increase metabolic function. This causes his or her muscle cells to become more sensitive to natural insulin, and better utilize the glucose needed for proper muscle function.

Limiting natural grazing and not allowing the horse to eat straw can further help with weight loss. Nature intended for a horse to graze in pasture, however nature did not intend for the horse to have an unlimited supply of fresh grass without having to travel miles a day to eat it. Try to limit the amount of grazing time each day by using a grazing muzzle or removing the horse from the pasture all together. While straw bedding may look unappealing to you, a horse loves it, and often munches on it without hesitation. Straw can have just as much sugar, and as many calories as grass hay and can really wreck a diet. Try switching to wood shavings or another type of bedding that will not encourage snacking.

Finally, refrain from feeding your horse treats. This may seem mean, or you may find it difficult to look into those big brown eyes and not give a snack, but in the long run your horse will be healthier from your will power. If you find you absolutely must feed a treat, opt for a very small amount of a low calorie food such as carrots, apples, or a handful of grapes.

Just as with humans, horses should strive to maintain an ideal weight. As is also the case with humans, it is often necessary to put your horse on a diet to drop a few unwanted pounds. The principles behind equine weight loss are the same as with human weight loss: do so healthily, slowly, steadily, and without starving.

Horses face many of the same issues we face when we are overweight. Carrying even a few extra pounds can put the horse’s total health in danger, and he or she can easily become more susceptible to breathing problems, hormone imbalances, injuries, and laminitis.

Starting The Diet

The first step to starting your horse on a diet is to determine the ideal weight for your animal. This number not only gives you a goal to strive for, it will also help you to figure how much food the horse should be fed on a daily basis.

Some simple guidelines for slow and steady weight loss are as follows: If the horse is still active and getting daily exercise, you should be feeding a minimum of one and a half percent of his or her current body weight, and as much as two percent of his or her ideal body weight in hay. If the horse is not getting regular exercise, or if he or she is confined to a stall or paddock area, you should feed anywhere from one to one and a half percent of his or her ideal body weight in hay.

Make sure you do not send your horse on a crash diet. If your horse is already on a reduced hay diet and not getting any grain, yet he or she is not losing any weight it can be tempting to reduce the food even further. You need to keep from doing this, as you could be affecting the animal’s metabolic rate, thus causing the horse to become resistant to the effects of insulin and become dependent upon fat stores in their bodies to feed their cells. When this happens (referred to as fat mobilization) the results can be so severe that organ damage can occur and the blood can become milky.

When you find yourself in the situation of a reduced calorie diet with little weight loss, it is important to check for underlying problems. We have all been around overweight people who claim they cannot lose weight due to a “glandular problem”. While most of us think “yeah right” when we hear this statement, the truth is it really could be the reason and the same could be true for your horse!

To determine if this is the case, take a bit of time and assess your horse for the following symptoms:

• Weight gain that began right after the horse reached maturity;

• Weight gain even on a diet that would not be sufficient to hold weight on a horse of a similar size;

• A fatty or hard crest on the neck that is present even if weight is lost elsewhere on the body;

• Other abnormal patches of fat in random patterns, sometimes appearing dimpled or resembling cellulite.

Other conditions such as insulin resistance and leptin resistance can be underlying causes of weight gain as well. If you suspect your horse may have any of these problems you should seek the advice of a veterinarian before starting any type of restricted diet.

What To Feed A Fat Horse

Hay should be your number feed for a horse that is overweight. That being said, it is extremely important that you choose the proper type of hay. Hay can vary a great deal in calories and sugar content. Bright green, tender cuts of hay, such as early alfalfa can really pack on the pounds. Coarser, or “stemmier”, cuts generally contain fewer calories and lower amounts of sugar. The best types of hay for weight loss include: meadow hays, prairie hays, timothy, orchard grass, and mature or late cuttings of Bermuda grass.

When trying to accomplish weight loss, grain should be omitted from your horse’s diet all together. You may be thinking that all of your horse’s nutrition comes from grain; however, this is simply not true. Grain can contain high amounts of fat and calories and really serves no purpose in an overweight horse’s daily diet. If you find your animal is in fact suffering from a metabolic problem, it is even more critical that you avoid feeding grain.

If you simply cannot stand the thought of only feeding your horse hay, or if he or she becomes unruly because others are getting grain, try feeding a healthier alternative. Beet pulp is low in calories, about the same amount as oats per pound; however since it needs to be soaked prior to feeding it can soak up about four times its dry measure. This means you can feed a good sized portion, while only providing a small amount of calories.

A great daily diet for a full sized horse is as follows: one pound (dry weight) of beet pulp divided into two feedings, mixed with two ounces of ground stabilized flax, and two ounces of rice bran. This makes for a diet that is well balanced, provides all the necessary nutrients, and provides enough fat (in the form of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids) to keep your horse happy. Adding the hay with a suitable mineral supplement is all you need to maintain optimal health.

Other Weight Loss Tips

Of course, just as it hold true with people, exercise plays a major role in a horse’s weight loss progress. A regular exercise plan not only helps the horse to burn calories, it also helps to balance hormone levels and increase metabolic function. This causes his or her muscle cells to become more sensitive to natural insulin, and better utilize the glucose needed for proper muscle function.

Limiting natural grazing and not allowing the horse to eat straw can further help with weight loss. Nature intended for a horse to graze in pasture, however nature did not intend for the horse to have an unlimited supply of fresh grass without having to travel miles a day to eat it. Try to limit the amount of grazing time each day by using a grazing muzzle or removing the horse from the pasture all together. While straw bedding may look unappealing to you, a horse loves it, and often munches on it without hesitation. Straw can have just as much sugar, and as many calories as grass hay and can really wreck a diet. Try switching to wood shavings or another type of bedding that will not encourage snacking.

Finally, refrain from feeding your horse treats. This may seem mean, or you may find it difficult to look into those big brown eyes and not give a snack, but in the long run your horse will be healthier from your will power. If you find you absolutely must feed a treat, opt for a very small amount of a low calorie food such as carrots, apples, or a handful of grapes.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/dieting-tips-for-an-overweight-horse-2540261.html

About the Author

Kate Hinton is CEO of ThatHorse.com which is a one stop shop for everything equine.

She is also the author of ‘The Essential Guide to Selling Your Horse’ which is a must have if you are looking to sell a horse.  

Visit http://www.horse-selling-guide.com to purchase your copy today!

Horse Hoof Problems

Author: Winnie Page

When it comes to training a horse there are as many approaches and techniques as there are horse trainers, and do it yourself horse training books can be found everywhere. On the other hand, professional horse trainers all agree on basic approaches on how to train a horse, and the basic needs like horse hoof problems that their owners will face. Would you be willing to train your own horse? Then the following article will discuss the basic techniques that most people use when they are training a horse for riding.

The halter and grooming

The horse will need to be introduced to the halter.This task is easier said than done because the horse may get frisky when the halter is put on their head for the first time. Once the horse is accustomed to the halter, place a riding blanket on its back and get the horse used to grooming.You will want to continue the training in the round pen next.

Basic maneuvers

A small circular pen for the basic training of horses is called the round pen. Horses art trained with trotting and stopping on command in the round pen. More verbal commands are taught such as turning and stopping will also have to be mastered. This training of starting, stopping, turning, and backing up continue until the horse begins to perform on command. When you have achieved the results, attaching a lunge line to the halter will be the next step. You will want to wear gloves when working with the lunge line because it is a rope about 25 feet long, and will be jerked around by the horse in the beginning. The lunge line is used to guide the horse from the halter along with the verbal commands that were used in the round pen.

Preparing for the saddle

A bond of trust between the horse and trainer should be established enough to begin the driving lessons. For the driving lessons, two 25′ foot long ropes are attached to either side of the halter. The horse follows the commands of the trainer while walking behind the horse with the ropes to help guide the horse. After you are certain the horse is in your control, you can train the horse at the much larger corral to fine tune the maneuvers.

Saddling process

The horse will be ready to saddle when you are comfortable with the way the horse responds to your commands. You will want to saddle the horse back at the round pen. Since the horse has never been saddled, don’t be surprised if the horse resists letting you saddle it.Expect the horse to avoid you by running from you, or even bucking up to keep you from putting the saddle on them.You will need lots of patience, and will need to comfort the horse until the task is completed. The submission for horse will come when it realizes that the saddle is no threat to them.

There are many horse training books that can aid you with more methods to training your new horse if you run into any problems. And after you have mastered how to train a horse, you will then have to learn how to care for the horse’s day to day needs, like horse hoof problems that will need to be addressed.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/home-and-family-articles/horse-hoof-problems-3485831.html

About the Author

Betty Dawson is fond of writing articles on her spare time. She tackles things like marriage, relationships, dating, love and more. She likes to play the golf on weekends.

5 General Hoof Care Schedules To Have A Healthy Horse

Author: danica

The basics in taking care of your horse include keeping the hooves trimmed and picked, ensure the shoes have the proper fit and visit your farrier regularly.

The importance of looking after the hooves of your horse is aptly conveyed by the adage “No foot, no horse.” Improper hoof care can cause an animal to experience pain and discomfort and even become lame. Diseases and infections can also the effects of hooves that are not properly cared. Horse hoof supplements are a good investment as they make your horse’s hooves healthy. You should also make sure that you regularly check your horse’s hooves and know what you need to do to keep them healthy.

Know your horse’s hooves

If you lack familiarity with the characteristics and anatomy of a horse’s foot, you may want to do some research on the topic. General knowledge and background information will aid you understand how your horse’s feet should look and will help you find if the feet are healthy and normal or whether they have abnormal characteristics. The frog portion of your horse’s foot should normally feel like a brand new rubber eraser. The frog normally looks dry whilst the shedding period lasts. Close attention should be given to the care of the horse’s hooves.

Pick your horse’s feet regularly

You can pick your horse’s feet if you notice any stones and debris wedged in them. Keeping the hooves free of foreign objects by regular cleaning or picking will enable you to keep an eye on any signs of injuries. This will prevent the horse from suffering from more serious health issues later on. You need to pick your horse’s feet before riding or walking your horse to remove any debris which can cause soreness after the activity. By using a hoof pick, you can remove debris from the horse’s hooves like stones and dirt that can be stuck inside the frog (a part of the hoof). Carefully check the frog for any infections which can be detected from its smell and secretions.

Trim your horse’s hooves

Whether your horse is wearing horseshoes or is allowed to walk barefoot, you must make sure that you trim and level hooves regularly.

Ensure the horseshoes are the right size. For horses that wear horseshoes, it is important that the shoes are not loose, as these can give discomfort and even cause lameness. Ensure that the nails fasten the shoes securely in place and such that no stones or other debris are wedged between the horseshoes and the rim.

Be sure to visit the farrier regularly

A good farrier is an excellent resource for quality hoof healthy and care advice. Never forget to visit on a regular basis. It is generally advised that you visit the farrier in 4 to 6 week intervals during the summer, going a little bit longer between visits in the winter. If your horse is wearing corrective shoes, more frequent visits may be needed.

Your horse’s overall health and well-being will depend on the condition of its hooves. Hence, you should learn to give time and invest in the right products that can improve the health of its hooves.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/5-general-hoof-care-schedules-to-have-a-healthy-horse-3862221.html

About the Author
For information on horse nutritional supplements, you may visit http://www.e3liveforhorses.com/.

Horse Grooming – How to Pull a Mane

Author: Lydia K Kelly

While a long, flowing mane is beautiful, for many riders it is more of a hassle that it is worth. Often showing a horse requires a pulled mane. Others prefer the look of a trim, tidy mane. Even a natural mane can use some pulling to keep it neat. Whatever your reason, it is a smart idea to learn how to pull your horse’s mane.

Most horses don’t mind having their manes pulled. Horses do not have nerve endings at the roots of their hairs, so unlike humans, they do not feel pain when the hair is pulled out. Most horses who react to having their manes pulled are uncomfortable with the feeling of having the mane teased up as a part of the process, or don’t like having their neck pulled on. If your horse does not like having his mane pulled, it would be a good idea to discuss using a tranquilizer with your vet before attempting to pull his mane.

Depending on your purpose, a mane can be pulled into various lengths and styles. Horses showing in the english disciplines generally have their manes pulled to 4″-6″ in length for braiding purposes. Some western disciplines also require manes to be pulled to similar lengths to make them easier to band. Breed shows often require natural manes, but expect that mane to be “shaped” into the classic “natural” shape. Pulling can be used to maintain that shape without an unnatural cut appearance. Often horses who are not showing are kept with manes pulled to keep them tidy with lengths varying from 6″-16″ long.

To pull your horse’s mane, you will need a pulling comb. This is a 4″ long metal comb with short teeth. Some pulling combs have handles, while others only have the comb. It is purely a matter or personal preference which type you use.

Before you begin, comb the hair so that it is flat and tangle free. Don’t fret if you pull out some hair – this will only thin the mane and make it easier to manage. Starting from the top of the mane take sections around 2″ wide and grasp the longest hairs at the bottom. Tease up the remaining hair until you have only a few hairs left in your grasp.

Wrap the hairs around the comb so that they make a full rotation around the spine of the comb. You should still grip the ends of the hair in your fingers. Now pull the hairs with the comb, using the back of the spine as leverage. Most of the hairs will pull out from the root, but some will break. This is fine – the hairs removed from the root will thin the mane, while the ones that break will help keep some body.

Be sure to only take a few hairs at a time. Too many hairs will be hard to pull, and will only irritate your horse. It is better to take your time than to rush by trying to pull too many hairs at a time.

Repeat this process all the way down the mane. Generally it is best to only pull 2-3″ at a time as any more can cause irritation to your horse. To keep the mane even it is helpful to comb the mane smooth on a regular basis, holding the hair flat to the horse’s neck to check on your progress.

It may take several sessions to get the mane to the proper length. Be patient and make sure that you start the process well before you need to have it fully pulled. Even the most experienced mane pullers often find that the mane needs touching up after being left for a day or two. As with all skills, practice makes perfect. Keep working on it, and soon you will be able to maintain your horse’s mane at the perfect length for your discipline.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/horse-grooming-how-to-pull-a-mane-560705.html

About the Author
Lydia K Kelly is a writer for HorseClicks, classifieds of horses for sale Kentucky, horses for sale Louisiana, horses for sale Maine and other states. Lydia is also a featured author at www.ArticleKing.com

Horse Grooming – Preparing For The Horse Show

Author: Lydia K Kelly

When attending a show it is important that your horse look its best. Adding a few finishing touches can make all the difference between a nice looking horse, and an animal that wins the class.

Let’s start by assuming that your horse has been thoroughly bathed before the show. Braiding has been arranged, and your tack is clean are ready for use.

To get the best shine on your horse, you will want to give him a thorough grooming. While bathing is great for getting out the dirt, the coat can often use some extra help to keep its shine. While your horse is still damp, take a large saddle pad and place it over its back. Then spray a light coating of show sheen over the coat where you will not be placing tack. Never spray under the saddle area, or where you need tack to stay snug.

While show sheen may seem a quick fix, it has many properties that make it very useful. It will increase the shine in your horse’s coat, but more importantly, it will help repel dust.

Be sure not to show sheen the mane if you plan on having it braided, and not to show sheen above the end of the dock on the tail. Show sheen is very slippery and will make braiding next to impossible.

If your horse has white hooves, or if the hooves are rough or uneven, try taking some mid-grade sandpaper and lightly sanding the hooves. You can find sandpaper on hard foam blocks that are easier to handle than plain paper. While sanding the hooves may sound a bit odd, as long as you don’t do it too often and only use it to smooth the surface layer and remove stains, it will not hurt your horse.

When finished, apply a layer of clear hoof polish to the hooves to keep them shiny. Black hoof polish can look nice on a horse with no white and black legs, but looks silly on horses with brown legs or socks. Stick to clear polish on those horses. Some people prefer to use oil when the horse goes in the ring, but this tends to be sticky and the dirt quickly dulls the hoof.

If you use hoof polish, be sure to apply a moisturizer to the hoof after the show. The polish can dry the hoof out. If you show a lot, you might want to avoid using polish at every show, reserving it for the bigger events.

For horses with white socks and stockings, it can be next to impossible to get them clean. A quick trick is to buy corn starch and rub it into the whites before the show. The corn starch will make the whites glow, and any excess will quickly be shaken off as the horse takes a few steps. Be sure that any polish is fully dry before adding corn starch, or it will stick.

Clipping off the whiskers on the muzzle really tidies the face. Nothing makes a horse look like a nag more quickly than a shaggy muzzle. You can use scissors to trim the hair around the ears too, but avoid clipping them out if you can, as the hair inside the ears is important for protection against flies.

If you like the sleek, shiny look on the face, try using Brilcream instead of baby oil. This wonderful men’s hair product creates a natural shine that sets off your horse without making him look oily. It only takes a little bit to add polish to your horse’s face.

Finally, if your horse has scars that shine, or otherwise look unpleasant, try using a bit of shoe polish to cover them up. This will blend them in, while still looking natural.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/horse-grooming-preparing-for-the-horse-show-560727.html

About the Author
Lydia K Kelly is a writer for HorseClicks, classifieds of horses for sale Maine, horses for sale Maryland, horses for sale Massachusetts and other states. Lydia is also a featured author at www.ArticleKing.com

Horse Grooming: Bathing A Horse

Author: Annabelle Cabella

Are you bathing a horse? Equestrian bathing is one of many things your horse should be desensitized to. This will ensure that the horse is prepared to be washed and bathed… and be content about it!

Bathing the equine is in fact fun and pleasurable for this great pet, especially immediately after a workout or a training session. A bath and shampoo is just what the equine desires; nonetheless, the activity may be time-consuming and requires a lot of effort on your part.

Have you ever bathed a horse? If not, it may be a bit overwhelming. But don’t worry because you can learn and begin to really like it as you go along. Bathing a horse is not solely for the purpose of bathing but a bonding time as well. The more time you spend with your horse, especially with something that gives genuine enjoyment to him, creates a more intimate bond between the two of you. Basically, the activity does not only clean and promote great hygiene, it is also an intimate experience.

For beginners, bathing a horse is a bit difficult. You may need to employ proper grooming tactics. Bear in mind, even though bathing is naturally enjoyable for your equine it doesn’t mean that he will always be cooperative. Gentleness is always the key principle with horses. Always reinforce positively. Every single activity you do with your horse needs to always have a payoff for the pet since they frighten very easily and are sensitive creatures.

Some horses are just weird; they may allow you to do silly stuff to them but sometimes, won’t allow you to bathe them. Generally, a horse will let you bathe him without hassle; otherwise he may have bad experiences from the past associated with taking a bath. In that case, you may need to start out all over again and rebuild that trust and feeling of security.

Whether you’re new to the activity, the equine is not yet used to you, or is just too sensitive, here are some helpful tips when bathing your horse:

1. Before anything else, make your horse comfortable and always warm him up for the activity that lies ahead.

2. Check your tools. Are they conveniently placed and accessible? Make sure you have the grooming tools prepared and ensure the hose can reach each and every part of the horse.

3. Tie your horse in safe, warm place. If the climate is cold, make sure you have warm water to bathe the animal with.

4. The most important things (e.g. an optional sponge, sweat scraper, and shampoo) needs to be within reach.

5. Be wary of the hose’s water pressure. Avoid frightening the horse with a surprising blast of water striking his body. It is best to turn it low at first. Simply increase the pressure gradually. Make the horse comfortable and secure by showing him the hose so he will know what is making him wet. The next time he sees the hose, the horse will know what to expect.

6. Gently trickle water down the horse’s sides, neck, and legs. Clean the equine’s anus. Lift the tail and just get it over with. Mind the splashback!

7. Shampoo your horse. It doesn’t need to be a special horse shampoo. Rub the shampoo on the neck and each side of the horse’s body.

8. Rinse the horse well. Ensure that there are no soap suds when you use the sweat scraper.

9. Now, do the legs just like you did with the neck and body.

10. Let the horse dry by leading him for a few minutes.

Using these techniques, you’ll be a hero at bathing a horse!

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/equestrian-articles/horse-grooming-bathing-a-horse-5512773.html

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